P.S. Please note the note.
Showing posts with label Georgia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Georgia. Show all posts
December 18, 2008
At Sea with Nothing Else to do...
It is in times of intense boredom that humanity has crafted its greatest achievements. This of course also applied to Floris's last drawing up till present: the journey across the Black sea from Poti (Georgia) to Ilychevsk (Ukraine).
P.S. Please note the note.
P.S. Please note the note.
Georgia in pencilstrokes
Continuing a good (depending on your inclinations) habit, Floris's drawing of his impressions from Georgia are unveiled!
You will see the high mountains, churches, castles and pig-inhabited villages. Also depicted is Gori, with Stalin as its most (in)famous son, the ferry leaving the port of Poti and -of course- Floris and Hanna, enjoying a wonderful Georgian dinner (khatchapuri and wine!).
You will see the high mountains, churches, castles and pig-inhabited villages. Also depicted is Gori, with Stalin as its most (in)famous son, the ferry leaving the port of Poti and -of course- Floris and Hanna, enjoying a wonderful Georgian dinner (khatchapuri and wine!).
December 16, 2008
December 10, 2008
Poti and the Black Sea Experience
After arriving in Poti, the usual endeavour to find a place to sleep started. The guidebook spoke of a very shabby hotel full of Abkhaz refugees and an apartment which we couldn't find: the prospects looked rather dim... Until we were spotted and stopped by a yellow Pepsi van: the men joyfully hijacked us and brought us to a nice small hotel that wasn't in the book ("Gastinitsa, Ulitsa Tsarina Tamara 20", for anyone with a particular interest). They even haggled down the price for us!
Later, they came back to our hotel with some food and some drinks, vodka of course. We learned about the Georgian way of drinking: long, elaborate toasts (in our case mainly to the friendship of the peoples), lots of vodka and a sip of radioactivity-coloured soft drink to wash it all away.
One of our hosts was the former chief of police of the town of Poti, and this encouraged his friend to drink without limit: upon our enquiry whether drunk-driving wouldn't lead to a traffic fine, he laughingly answered "Omari (his friend) chief police, problem no!". Avoid yellow Pepsi vans in Poti...
The ferry from Poti to Ilychevsk was great. After our experiences in Central Asia and the Kaukasus, we anticipated a dilapidated ship ready for the scrapyard, but the MS Greifswald turned out to be a quite modern RoRo-ferry that could easily sail somewhere between EU-countries (even quite up to DNV standard...)
The beds were comfortable, the sea was very calm and the weather was fantastic. We even saw a very clear halo around the moon (e.g. here)! The only real drawback was the late arrival time in Ilychevsk: we passed immigration around 21:30, and arrived late evening in Odesa. Luckily, a nice Japanese fellow traveller knew of a good hostel near Odesa's main station, where we were very welcome even at 23:00...
Later, they came back to our hotel with some food and some drinks, vodka of course. We learned about the Georgian way of drinking: long, elaborate toasts (in our case mainly to the friendship of the peoples), lots of vodka and a sip of radioactivity-coloured soft drink to wash it all away.
One of our hosts was the former chief of police of the town of Poti, and this encouraged his friend to drink without limit: upon our enquiry whether drunk-driving wouldn't lead to a traffic fine, he laughingly answered "Omari (his friend) chief police, problem no!". Avoid yellow Pepsi vans in Poti...
The ferry from Poti to Ilychevsk was great. After our experiences in Central Asia and the Kaukasus, we anticipated a dilapidated ship ready for the scrapyard, but the MS Greifswald turned out to be a quite modern RoRo-ferry that could easily sail somewhere between EU-countries (even quite up to DNV standard...)
The beds were comfortable, the sea was very calm and the weather was fantastic. We even saw a very clear halo around the moon (e.g. here)! The only real drawback was the late arrival time in Ilychevsk: we passed immigration around 21:30, and arrived late evening in Odesa. Luckily, a nice Japanese fellow traveller knew of a good hostel near Odesa's main station, where we were very welcome even at 23:00...
December 6, 2008
Gori: Jugashvili and EU troops
The name Iosif Vissarionovich Jugashvili may not ring a bell, but the man known as Josef Stalin surely isn't just famous in his home town of Gori.
Gori must be one of the few places in the world where there still are Stalin statues standing. It also boasts a quite interesting museum dedicated to the life and works of its famous son. Apart from a temple-like construction surrounding his house of birth, the train carriage he travelled in to the Yalta conference and a mass of busts and paintings, there are a lot of pictures, documents and personal items on display.
It's all good fun, rather interesting but it fails completely at giving a balanced picture of the man: he is displayed as a master politician, a well-doer and a war hero. No mention of the Gulags, the forced labour, the millions who died or his "devils pact" treaty with Hitler...
On more recent events, Gori was in the world news as one of the places where Georgian-Russian fighting in the 2008 conflict was most intense. None of that really shows anymore, though: we didn't see any buildings with bullet holes, no rubble from collapsed buildings or anything like that. What we did see, however, was the EU-mission "military observers", who stayed in the same hotel as we did (in fact, we slept in a room previously used as their field office). Not that there was so much to observe, really: most of the soldiers seemed primarily concerned with the coffee breaks and with chatting in the lobby...
Gori must be one of the few places in the world where there still are Stalin statues standing. It also boasts a quite interesting museum dedicated to the life and works of its famous son. Apart from a temple-like construction surrounding his house of birth, the train carriage he travelled in to the Yalta conference and a mass of busts and paintings, there are a lot of pictures, documents and personal items on display.
It's all good fun, rather interesting but it fails completely at giving a balanced picture of the man: he is displayed as a master politician, a well-doer and a war hero. No mention of the Gulags, the forced labour, the millions who died or his "devils pact" treaty with Hitler...
On more recent events, Gori was in the world news as one of the places where Georgian-Russian fighting in the 2008 conflict was most intense. None of that really shows anymore, though: we didn't see any buildings with bullet holes, no rubble from collapsed buildings or anything like that. What we did see, however, was the EU-mission "military observers", who stayed in the same hotel as we did (in fact, we slept in a room previously used as their field office). Not that there was so much to observe, really: most of the soldiers seemed primarily concerned with the coffee breaks and with chatting in the lobby...
December 4, 2008
From here to eternity
Granted: eternity is a bit of a stretch, but from Kutaisi (Western-Georgia), where we are now, to Helsinki is still quite a long way... Next Saturday, if all goes well, we'll be taking a ferry across the Black Sea from Poti to Ilychevsk near Odessa. The weather is great down here (20 degrees, sunshine, cloudless sky), so we hope the ferry keeps its schedule and arrives next Monday in Ukraine - but shipping schedules are there to be adjusted.
We'll spend the last two weeks of our "heroic trip" (sure, whatever) in Eastern Europe, mainly hopping capitals: Kiev, Warsaw (or Minsk, provided getting a transit visa in Kiev goes super-smooth), Vilnius, Riga and Talinn. From there, another ferry will take us to Helsinki.
So it seems that out "overland" aim of crossing the Eurasian continent will be achieved, if "by sea" is also admitted as overland travel (which we of course believe). With borders between Georgia and Russia sealed and the Azeri-Russian border open only to locals, going by sea is anyway the only sensible option: going round through Turkey, Greece, Bulgaria and Romania is quite a detour, and flying just isn't cool enough for us!
We'll spend the last two weeks of our "heroic trip" (sure, whatever) in Eastern Europe, mainly hopping capitals: Kiev, Warsaw (or Minsk, provided getting a transit visa in Kiev goes super-smooth), Vilnius, Riga and Talinn. From there, another ferry will take us to Helsinki.
So it seems that out "overland" aim of crossing the Eurasian continent will be achieved, if "by sea" is also admitted as overland travel (which we of course believe). With borders between Georgia and Russia sealed and the Azeri-Russian border open only to locals, going by sea is anyway the only sensible option: going round through Turkey, Greece, Bulgaria and Romania is quite a detour, and flying just isn't cool enough for us!
December 3, 2008
Kazbegi: mountains, a church and adrenaline
After some ten days around, it is clear to us that Georgia is a great travel destination: fantastic landscapes and scenery, age-old history with loads of castles, churches and fortresses as a lasting testimony, great food and drink, and very welcoming and friendly people.
Our itinerary is quite straightforward: from Tbilisi, we went to Kazbegi (in the Kaukasus mountains, in Georgia's North), back to Tbilisi, then onwards to Gori and Kutaisi, with Poti as a last halting point.
Kazbegi is a rather secluded mountain town where cows and dogs roam the streets. The town is not particularly charming in itself, but the surrounding mountains present a wonderful scenery, with mount Kazbek towering over it all at 5047 m. We based ourselves in Kazbegi, from where we did two day walks: one to the church of Tsminda Sameba (Holy trinity) up a mountain, and another northwards through the Dariali gorge. On our first walk, we found ourselves accompanied by one (and later two) dogs, who kept on running in front of us and then waiting for us to catch up, thus effectively showing us the way.
The road to and from Kazbegi was again a bit of an adventure. On the way to Kazbegi, our minibus ploughed through wet snow and slippery sludge across the Jvari pass, scarily close to the edge of the road and to the steep cliffs beneath. Without winter tires, of course. On the way back, more heart-stopping moments were our share: now, the pass was effectively snowed over and visibility was minimal. Our fellow passengers were very, very quiet (as were we), with only an occasional "Oh my God" (in whatever language) being uttered. But we made it back safely to Tbilisi... those candles we lit in those Orthodox churches really did work!
Our itinerary is quite straightforward: from Tbilisi, we went to Kazbegi (in the Kaukasus mountains, in Georgia's North), back to Tbilisi, then onwards to Gori and Kutaisi, with Poti as a last halting point.
Kazbegi is a rather secluded mountain town where cows and dogs roam the streets. The town is not particularly charming in itself, but the surrounding mountains present a wonderful scenery, with mount Kazbek towering over it all at 5047 m. We based ourselves in Kazbegi, from where we did two day walks: one to the church of Tsminda Sameba (Holy trinity) up a mountain, and another northwards through the Dariali gorge. On our first walk, we found ourselves accompanied by one (and later two) dogs, who kept on running in front of us and then waiting for us to catch up, thus effectively showing us the way.
The road to and from Kazbegi was again a bit of an adventure. On the way to Kazbegi, our minibus ploughed through wet snow and slippery sludge across the Jvari pass, scarily close to the edge of the road and to the steep cliffs beneath. Without winter tires, of course. On the way back, more heart-stopping moments were our share: now, the pass was effectively snowed over and visibility was minimal. Our fellow passengers were very, very quiet (as were we), with only an occasional "Oh my God" (in whatever language) being uttered. But we made it back safely to Tbilisi... those candles we lit in those Orthodox churches really did work!
Dangers in Georgia
Is Georgia dangerous to travel in after the conflict with Russia last summer? Well, no. There's no bombs falling, no land mines to avoid, no gunfire in the suburbs - all quiet on the Kaukasus front, it seems.
The greatest dangers we have encountered are the traffic (fast, reckless, seatbeltless), lidless sewer openings (especially dangerous at night in badly lit streets) and locals who drag you with them to taste some of their home-made wine (great wine, but sometimes quite strong).
Most locals we have met assured us that "nothing would happen with Russia, because it's winter now". Interestingly, quite a few people we've met don't just blame the Russians for what happened: many Georgians don't seem to have too high esteem of Saakashvili, their president, whom they don't really trust either. Most people choose to stay far away from politics and just get on with their lives.
The greatest dangers we have encountered are the traffic (fast, reckless, seatbeltless), lidless sewer openings (especially dangerous at night in badly lit streets) and locals who drag you with them to taste some of their home-made wine (great wine, but sometimes quite strong).
Most locals we have met assured us that "nothing would happen with Russia, because it's winter now". Interestingly, quite a few people we've met don't just blame the Russians for what happened: many Georgians don't seem to have too high esteem of Saakashvili, their president, whom they don't really trust either. Most people choose to stay far away from politics and just get on with their lives.
November 25, 2008
Tbilisi: Kaukasus' Finest
It seems that the nearer we get to Europe and Finland, the more we like the places - maybe some sort of a sign that we are longing for "home", but it might of course just be because it is nicer...
In any case: Tbilisi is a great city. It is reasonably modern, with boutique-and-cafe-laden avenues to keep shoppers busy, but it also has a very charming old town, which truly feels European. The winding lanes and tree lined cobbled streets, the old houses with vine branch-overgrown balconies and busy orthodox churches make for a few hours and days of interesting wandering around and exploring.
Tbilisi houses the first McDonald's we encountered on our trip since Eastern China, but unlike in China, we don't need this kind of "comforting, recognisable food": Georgian cuisine is excellent. After only a few days in the country, we (especially Hanna of course) must have already gained a few kilos. On almost every street corner, you find various types of khachapuri, some kind of cheese pie. Dirt cheap, greasy, delicious and omnipresent: what more can you wish for?
Other dishes we have enjoyed so far include shkmeruli (chicken in garlic sauce), khinkali (meat dumplings) and some kind of beef stew. Georgia accounts for our best culinary experiences so far, and frankly - after Chinese and Central Asian food (and the rather disappointing Iranian restaurant scene) - it's about time there's something genuinely nice to eat!
The Georgian Orthodox Church is the liveliest active religious organisation we have encountered (apart from the Islamic state-religion in Iran, culminating at the shrine of Imam Reza in Mashad). All churches in Tbilisi seem to be permanently overcrowded with believers, resulting in amazing scenes. There are young couples being married by the busload: some couples are queueing in the back of the church while another is being married. Meanwhile, regular visitors are walking around, crossing themselves and burning ever more candles; other people are confessing and in another end of the church, a baby is loudly protesting its baptism. Anyone keen on religious action should seriously consider joining the Georgian Orthodox Church!
On another topic, it's clear that Georgians have suffered heavily from the recent war with Russia: there are far more beggars in Tbilisi's streets than in any other city we've visited. A lot of people are selling their property and many (if not most) old women are selling seeds, woolen socks or small bouquets of flowers to make ends meet - and with their monthly pension of 70 lari (+- 35 EUR), it's easy to see why...
In any case: Tbilisi is a great city. It is reasonably modern, with boutique-and-cafe-laden avenues to keep shoppers busy, but it also has a very charming old town, which truly feels European. The winding lanes and tree lined cobbled streets, the old houses with vine branch-overgrown balconies and busy orthodox churches make for a few hours and days of interesting wandering around and exploring.
Tbilisi houses the first McDonald's we encountered on our trip since Eastern China, but unlike in China, we don't need this kind of "comforting, recognisable food": Georgian cuisine is excellent. After only a few days in the country, we (especially Hanna of course) must have already gained a few kilos. On almost every street corner, you find various types of khachapuri, some kind of cheese pie. Dirt cheap, greasy, delicious and omnipresent: what more can you wish for?
Other dishes we have enjoyed so far include shkmeruli (chicken in garlic sauce), khinkali (meat dumplings) and some kind of beef stew. Georgia accounts for our best culinary experiences so far, and frankly - after Chinese and Central Asian food (and the rather disappointing Iranian restaurant scene) - it's about time there's something genuinely nice to eat!
The Georgian Orthodox Church is the liveliest active religious organisation we have encountered (apart from the Islamic state-religion in Iran, culminating at the shrine of Imam Reza in Mashad). All churches in Tbilisi seem to be permanently overcrowded with believers, resulting in amazing scenes. There are young couples being married by the busload: some couples are queueing in the back of the church while another is being married. Meanwhile, regular visitors are walking around, crossing themselves and burning ever more candles; other people are confessing and in another end of the church, a baby is loudly protesting its baptism. Anyone keen on religious action should seriously consider joining the Georgian Orthodox Church!
On another topic, it's clear that Georgians have suffered heavily from the recent war with Russia: there are far more beggars in Tbilisi's streets than in any other city we've visited. A lot of people are selling their property and many (if not most) old women are selling seeds, woolen socks or small bouquets of flowers to make ends meet - and with their monthly pension of 70 lari (+- 35 EUR), it's easy to see why...
November 23, 2008
The Armenia-Georgia Border
Yes, again a story about a border crossing. It's maybe a bit monotonous, but for us, crossing borders is always a bit of an exciting endeavour.
We anticipated that the Armenia-Georgia crossing would be easy: we don't need a visa for Georgia, and both countries are friendly to each other and towards Europeans, so from an official point of view: nieto probljiema (our travel Russian isn't exaclty well developed, but hey).
From Stepanavan, some 40 km south of the border, we took a minibus that would bring us directly to Tbilisi. Easy as can be. The Guguti border station is a very small one, however (there aren't evenblack market money changers!), and it took a while to get there over badly damaged roads.
Armenia's customs and passport control was a bit slow, but straightforward enough. Georgia's side was also relatively straightforward: we got our passports back within 5 minutes, and thought we'd be on our way shortly.
Things turned out a bit differently though: there was a passenger in our minibus who had some problems with her passport. What it exactly was, we aren't sure (something about her being "invalid" or so), but it did take a very long time to get sorted out: we arrived at the border around 10:00 and only got through around 16:00...
Several other marshrutki passed us towards Tbilisi, but they were as full as ours, so changing transport wasn't an option. Luckily, we had some food with us (salami and cheese), and the friendly border guards offered us a few fruits to calm our nerves. It was all quite painless, though, and we arrived in Tbilisi just when it started to get dark.
We anticipated that the Armenia-Georgia crossing would be easy: we don't need a visa for Georgia, and both countries are friendly to each other and towards Europeans, so from an official point of view: nieto probljiema (our travel Russian isn't exaclty well developed, but hey).
From Stepanavan, some 40 km south of the border, we took a minibus that would bring us directly to Tbilisi. Easy as can be. The Guguti border station is a very small one, however (there aren't evenblack market money changers!), and it took a while to get there over badly damaged roads.
Armenia's customs and passport control was a bit slow, but straightforward enough. Georgia's side was also relatively straightforward: we got our passports back within 5 minutes, and thought we'd be on our way shortly.
Things turned out a bit differently though: there was a passenger in our minibus who had some problems with her passport. What it exactly was, we aren't sure (something about her being "invalid" or so), but it did take a very long time to get sorted out: we arrived at the border around 10:00 and only got through around 16:00...
Several other marshrutki passed us towards Tbilisi, but they were as full as ours, so changing transport wasn't an option. Luckily, we had some food with us (salami and cheese), and the friendly border guards offered us a few fruits to calm our nerves. It was all quite painless, though, and we arrived in Tbilisi just when it started to get dark.
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