For some unknown reason, the border post we intended to cross was closed. Our driver agreed to take us further to another station, but it turned out that was only for local traffic (Uzbeks and Kazakhs only). We were then proposed to take another taxi (500T p.p.) to yet another border station some 60 km further away, of course for a fee.
We weren't really sure what to make of the whole story, of closed borders and this mysterious border corssing further away, also because this wasn't indicated on any of our maps. But we decided to take the taxi there nonetheless, on the condition that we'd only pay if that border was actually open for foreigners.
And indeed, less than half an hour later, we found ourselves at this border crossing an we could cross.
On the Kazakh side, customs was a joke: the officer jut asked "You have gun?", "You have drugs?", to which we of course replied negatively. We then got our stamps on our visa right away at the immigration control, and made our way to the Uzbek side (about 10 minute's walk through no man's land).
The Uzbek side had a relaxed feel to it: the immgration officials were joking with each other, kindly wrestling and really taking it easy. It took them some time to realise Belgium was a country ("Belgi-Anglia?" "Bulgaria?" - "No, Belgium is an independent country, in Europe!"), but then everything went just fine. The Uzbek customs were a bit more of a challenge as the forms (to be filled out in twofold) were exclusively inRussian. Luckily, the British guy understood most of it so we succeeded to clear that obstacle as well.
Getting onward transport from the border to the Tashkent metro meant a lot of haggling and negotiating the price, but the 25000 Sum (ca. 24 USD) we eventually paid between the four of us was not that unfair.
So in all, we didn't have any real problems, just inconveniences. Other travellers were more unlucky, however. Some stories:
- The British couple hadn't registered in Kazachstan (tourists must register in an immigration office within 5 days of entering the country overland) so they ended up paying a "fine" of 29 USD each (the fine started off at 100 USD).
- A Swiss couple we met had the same problem, sorting it out for 50 USD.
- An American man was asked for the headphones of his MP3-player at the Kazakh customs by the first official, and for the player itself by another. His passport was also held hostage by an immigration officer, who only gave it back for a 10 USD bribe.
- A Swiss motercyclist was asked for money because he was "illegally" walking on no man's land.
In general, it's quite possible to cross borders hassle-free, if you act cool enough. Some advice:
- Have your paperwork right. Make sure your visas are correct, check if the entry stamp is there, keep the registration forms and anything remotely looking official - anything wrong with your documents practically is an open invitation to get fined.
- Pretend you don't understand any Russian or local language. Temporarily lose your English-speaking abilities if necessary.
- Don't (openly) change money on the illegal black market. Often, there are money changers hanging around, within sight of officials. This is an offence, and may very well lead to a bribe (the loot probably being shared between the moneychanger and the official).
- Don't explain anything that you haven't been asked.
- Have some time to spare. Usually, if you refuse to pay up or oblige to their (unjust) orders, they will let you go if you just wait long enough.
- If asked to show your money, first refuse but if they insist - count it first and keep a close eye on it.
- If "fined", ask for a receipt and/or ask to see their superior. They usually don't like that.
We only have one Central-Asian border to cross, but so far we steered clear of any problems. Let's hope our good luck continues!
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